Beginner Guide for Setting Slicer 3D Printer

The general difference between successful 3D printing and failing can be the appropriate settings of 3D slicers. No wonder, whether you work on a desktop or commercial 3D printer, the right slicer setting must be known by each user.

Here, we will tell you a little about 3D slicers and what are all the right settings you must remember while printing 3D:

What is a 3D slicer?

3D slicer is basically a 3D printing software that pays attention to the digital 3D model that will be printed and turn it into direction for 3D printers for making objects.

According to its settings, the slicer can cut the CAD model into various horizontal layers and even calculate the number of printed materials and the time needed to print objects with a 3D prusa printer.

Almost all of this information are pushed to your 3D printer in the form of gcode files.

Thus, the slicer setting will always have an impact on your print quality and is always a must to have an apposite 3D slicer with settings to get the best quality 3D molds.

Slicer settings that you must know:

Here are some prominent 3D slicer settings that need to be remembered to get superlative 3D molds:

High layer:

High layer is almost identical to print resolution. This shows the height of each layer of filament which is deposited by the printer to form a complete object.

Objects made of a thinner layer will have a more smooth surface and will require post-processing after 3D printing. However, this requires more time to resolve because more layers are stored.

Against this, the object printed with a thicker layer will be printed faster, but with the print layer clearly visible and the surface is more rough. They may need a little processing after being fully printed and dried.

Shell thickness:

Shell thickness is one of the main factors that affect the power of 3D objects and show the thickness of the side wall.

This is defined as' how many times a 3D printer tracks the outer wall of the design, before actually going to the same part. The thick shell is set to 0.8 in almost all types of 3D printers and you don't need to change it for decorative molds.

However, if you intend to make waterproof print etc. Or something with a better durability, you can always increase the thickness of the shell.


If the 3D object has a disconnected surface, the retraction feature informs a 3D printer to stop extruding the print material from the nozzle and repel it only if needed.

Usually, retraction is always activated in your 3D printer and this can cause a clogged nozzle on the equipment. If you see things like that, you can always deactivate retraction settings.

Fill density:

The density of space in the outer skin of the object is known as a filler. This is generally measured as a percentage (%) not mm.

And objects tend to be stronger, heavier and more time consuming to be built when infill is more in percentage. Therefore, it is not wise to print with 100% infill every time, because this is more expensive.

Instead, items for display are recommended to have infill 10 to 20% and more sturdy in nature can go for anything between 75 to 100% of Infill.

Print speed:

It refers to the level where extruder travels and sets 3D printing materials. And print speeds will always depend on a number of factors such as the type of 3D printer used, the filament used, the design you print and high layer etc.

In general, high quality objects are achieved at a slower print speed, but you can test your 3D printer speed by printing different objects and choosing that suits the best.

Supporting structure:

This is an object of support that secures the main 3D print object from the surface that does not have anything or is not enough of the basic ingredients. For example, while objects are printed in the layer, the widespread section above 45 degrees will not have the first layer of the filament and can be printed as overhang.

This overhang can cause drooping and thus requires a support object to be printed as referred to.

Platform adhesion:

This is a 3D printer setting that shows how the model attaches to the print bed. If the material is curved at the bottom, this can cause the mold not to stick to the print bed.

For the best platform adhesion, here are two main settings that you can make sure:

• Raft: a horizontal grid can be formed under the object to be printed and act as a platform for objects to stay on the Build platform.

• Brim: This is the lines at the bottom, similar to full caps, which keep the object attach to the surface, without leaving all Marks.

These are some main 3D slicer settings that have a big impact on the object you print.

You might use a good 3D scanner to scan the physical object and get the best design, but unless you make sure the setting is perfect, the final mold will be too different from your imagination.

So, while you get a 3D printer from several 3D printer shops, don't forget to learn the slicer settings related to the same and print your object only with recommended settings.

Image Credit: Professor 3D Printing